A slow ride around the block for my little girl before I load the bike.

Have you ever had a stretch of good luck that was just too good to believe? When everything just seems to fall into place? I had such a string of events recently which made it possible for me to take a few days off to explore some backroads and just take it easy.

I had not taken my current motorcycle on a long trip and had been wanting to get on the road. I purchased this bike in November of last year, trading in my Kawasaki Vulcan. I was hoping that the Kawasaki GPz1100 would make a friendlier companion on long rides. This spring, the weather has not been the best in central Iowa and I thought it would be July before I would be able to get a trip in. I was also having difficulty with my wrists. I am a computer programmer and after 11 years, I think I need to be a bit more careful about taking care of my wrists. The doctor diagnosed Tendonitis and prescribed ibuprofin. I had been on the Ibuprofin for a couple weeks when my luck began.

First, I had to take 2 days of vacation or lose them (hard life). Second, the weatherman predicted high 70's to low 80's for the next 5 days. Third, I had no personal obligations for the weekend. Fourth, my wrists were feeling good again. Fifth, I had prepared all winter so I had the right gear and was ready to go.

I prepared the bike Friday afternoon after work. I washed it, checked everything, and gave my 5-year-old daughter Jenny a little ride around the neighborhood. This was her first ride (she can finally touch the passenger pegs) and she was very excited. We went very slow, but I can tell I will need to buy her a helmet and some leathers before too long.

Saturday morning I slept in a little since I thought I would need to wait for the grass to dry before I could mow the lawn...my wife was kind enough to volunteer to mow the lawn for me so I can get out a bit earlier. Can this type of luck hold?

So, I strap all my gear to the passenger seat and I am away. One helpful hint for others with soft luggage and sport-bikes. To avoid problems with the bags or bungee cords rubbing on the finish of the bike, go to any drugstore and buy clear shelf paper and affix it to the places where bags or bungee cords might rub. Might save you an expensive paint job.

I had planned a route using Map'n'Go the week before. I don't follow an exact route, but the plan was to leave Des Moines using the quickest possible route south, head east towards Fort Madison and the Mississippi River...Follow the river to around St. Louis, head west along the Missouri River until I get to Missouri Route 19...Take Route 19 south to Arkansas and then meander back towards Iowa on whatever route looked best.

Stopping for a break in Southeast Iowa

I get on the road taking boring Interstate 35 south until I get to Highway 2. Highway 2 is about as scenic as can be possible in this area of the state. There is the occasional hilly section, a few forests, but most of it is farmland. I grew up on a farm, so the smells bring back a lot of childhood memories. Before I know it, I am 150 miles from home and I wonder where the time has gone. I stop for a drink and snack from my tankbag at a roadside stop just west of Fort Madison.

The weather was awesome as I estimated it to be around 80 degrees at noon when I arrived in Fort Madison. I was able to find the toll bridge across the Mississippi and had to wait for the bridge to swing back into place after letting the boat traffic through. I paid my $0.50 and made my way into Illinois.

Just south of Nauvoo, Illinois

I have ridden this stretch of the Great River Road before and I was anxious to do so again. South of Nauvoo Illinois, the highway is smooth as glass as it follows the Mississippi as close as possible. Many times you are just a few yards from the river. This is one of my favorite sections of the River Road and I would recommend it to anyone, no matter what you are riding.

I stop at a roadside park along this stretch of road for a few photos. I didn’t have any pictures of my bike yet, and I couldn’t think of a better place to take a few. I am a terrible photographer, but I did manage a couple that were in focus.

South of Nauvoo, barges in background

There was quite a lot of river traffic today and I took my time and enjoyed the view. On previous trips on other motorcycles, I usually HAD to stop every hour or so to recuperate. My GPz is much more comfortable and with the GenMar bar risers and Corbin seat, I can go for hours if I want to.

The roads further south my route in Illinois aren’t quite as interesting, but still a lot of fun. I cross the river again at Quincy and ride on the Missouri side of the river. I pass through Hannibal, boyhood home of Tom Sawyer, but just keep on moving. I don’t really care for the commercialized, touristy atmosphere that this town has. I take highway 79 south out of Hannibal. I had read that this was a nice motorcycle road, and it did not disappoint.

High above the Mississippi at a scenic overlook

I don’t remember where it was exactly, but somewhere south of Hannibal on 79 there is a nice scenic overlook where this photo was taken. My camera is cheap and my skills laughable, but take my word for it, this was a great view. I was starting to feel the 300 or so miles by this point, so I took a few minutes to walk around and enjoy the view.

The plan for the evening was to find a nice quiet campsite. Sounds simple doesn’t it. This would be my only real problem of the trip. I guess I should have expected problems finding a campsite on a Saturday when the weather is perfect, but I’m not into planning details like that.

I found a really nice state park with camping, but after about 20 minutes of riding around, I found there was no vacancy. I did see a deer, luckily I was only going 30 mph at the time or it might have been really interesting. By now the sun was setting and I had gone about 400 miles for the day. I decided to keep on my route as there was still quite a bit of light.

Eventually, it got darker, as it has a tendancy to do, and I gave up the idea of setting up my tent in the dark. I resigned myself to staying in a motel for the evening. As I approached the St. Louis area, I pulled into the first motel that looked to be available. It had a bed and it was cheap, what else do you need when traveling alone?

Sunday morning and I was up early and on the road by 8AM. I expected to go about 100 miles before I stopped for some breakfast and it was great riding weather. I chose to take Highway 94 west from Cottleville to Hermann. This road is wonderful. It follows the Missouri river and criss-crosses the Katy Trail. There were quite a few other bikers out this morning. I imagine this road is quite popular among the St. Louis motorcycling community.

Breakfast stop

At Hermann I stop at a gas station and buy some milk and gas. On my way out, there is a man taking a good long look at my bike. We talk for a bit and I hear about the trip that he took a long time ago aboard a BSA. His buddy was on a Yamaha triple and they had gone to Arkansas for a week of fishing and riding. He appeared to be about 45 years old and he said he wanted to get back on a bike. I recommended a Honda Nighthawk 750 for him since he talked about wanting a Honda. I seem to have this same conversation over and over. Man used to ride but sold his bike, regrets selling, hasn’t ridden for quite a while, thinking of getting another bike....I hope that isn’t me someday...

On the south side of Hermann I stop for breakfast. I had packed most everything I would need for all my meals during my trip, except the milk which I just bought. I’d rather eat at a roadside park than in a restaurant when I travel. That way I don’t have to worry about my schedule, or if I will find a place to eat when I am in the boonies. I’ve made a meal out of a bag of Corn chips purchased at a gas station, but I don’t like to make a habit out of it.

Highway 19 is the reason I came south. This road has been recommended by almost every book or web site I have seen. I was going to spend the best part of my day riding it from its north end south into Arkansas. This road is great. It may not be the Blue Ridge Parkway, but it gets my Top 10 vote.

Rolling hills of southern Missouri

Unfortunately, I was having so much fun , I only took this one picture of the countryside along route 19. Nothing but hills, trees and valleys.

I arrived in Salem, Arkansas around 3PM and decided that I should probably make my way north and west toward home. From my maps, it looked like it would be best to head west on Arkansas Highway 62 until I got to Mountain Home, Arkansas. From there, I would head north on Highway 5. Highway 5 looked to be a lot of fun and was headed in mostly the right direction. I decided to take it all the way to my stopping point for the evening which I had just decided would be the Lake of the Ozarks State Park.

There was quite a bit of traffic around Mountain Home, Arkansas and I was glad to get on the smaller Highway 5 and get away from traffic. Around Gainsville, Missouri, I was passed by a blue Eagle Talon and a white Dodge Avenger. They were, shall we say, exceeding the posted speed limits. I felt like a little bit of fun too so I became their little red caboose for the next 30 miles or so. We are clipping along at around 90 to 95 mph and they don’t seem to mind my tagging along.

As we crest a hill, the Talon, now in the lead puts on his brakes. The Avenger slows as well and I figure their radar detectors must have gone off. Sure enough, there is a police officer parked on the side of the road. He doesn’t have anyone stopped...he is just sitting there with his lights on. This doesn’t look good for the home team. As we pass him, he turns off his lights and gets in behind us. We are now a 4 vehicle, 55 mph parade for the next 10 miles or so until we reach the next town. The Talon and the Avenger go their separate ways while the policeman keeps following me through town. As I pull out of town, the policeman takes the last turnoff and lets me go. Luck like this, I should buy a lottery ticket!

Small waterfall

It is getting late in the afternoon and I stopped at a roadside park along Highway 5. I am not exactly sure where this was, but it turned into quite the photo stop.

There was a stream that crossed the road in the park and it made a nice waterfall. I got a couple pictures which I wasn’t really satisfied with after I got them developed, but here they are.

I might have to get one of those digital cameras so I can see what I am getting before I leave.

This was my last break of the day. I only had about 70 miles to go and figured I had plenty of time. I enjoy the sound of the waterfall and walk around a bit and stretch. I had gone about 400 miles by this point so I could use the exercise.

Streamside

Peaceful roadside stop

Back on the road, I head north to the Lake of the Ozarks. This area is also WAY too commercialized and touristy for my tastes. Luckily, I am able to get through town and find the state park.

The park is quite a ways off the main road and I am thankful for that since it gets me away from the people and the noise. The park is nearly empty on this Sunday night and I pick a campsite.

Lake of the Ozarks

I set up camp and then walk down to the lake to take a picture just before sundown.

The next morning I take my time getting up and breaking camp. I enjoy a couple cups of coffee and the bagels I had packed. I am the only camper in this area of the campground and it is very secluded. I listen to the birds and just relax, soaking in the solitude. I am only about 370 miles from home, and much of that will be Interstate, so I am in no hurry to leave.

My campsite

About 10AM, I get packed and on my way. I further enjoy Highway 5 until I catch Highway 24 along the south side of the Missouri river. I ride west on 24 until I get to Lexington where I stop for lunch at the Battle of Lexington state historic site. I used the drive-thru at the nearby Hardee’s since it was so convenient to the park.

I could tell my trip was over...I still had around 200 miles to go, but the real trip was over. There would be no more twisty roads or scenic overlooks. I slipped my homemade throttle lock on and headed north. At Cameron I got on the slab and headed towards home. The Kawasaki GPz1100 isn’t a Honda GoldWing, but it can handle the miles almost as good. With my throttle lock set at 80, it was 2 short hours and I was home.

After the 1430 miles of this trip, the only things I considered changing on my bike would be to add a taller GiVi windshield, and hard luggage. Strapping my stuff to the passenger seat was O.K., but the hard luggage will make it a much nicer ride, especially two up. I have since purchased a GiVi hard luggage system and will be mounting it soon. My next trip will hopefully be in July (’97). My wife and I hope to leave the little one with my parents and take a ride around lake Michigan. If we can’t swing that, we might just visit some twisty Minnesota or Wisconsin roads.

Dave "Dave in Des Moines" Spaulding (June, 1997) E-Mail

P.S. Here is a great trip report from a fellow member of the GPz1100 mailing list. Philip Hamm rides the Blue Ridge Parkway!